NEW PRODUCTS

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-          A New Look at Liposomes

   Capisphere(1), a new liposome, has a “concentric construction”. Capisphers carry a  positive charge, allowing the incorporation of a cationic polymer (guar hydroxypropyltrimonium) into the capsule wall. Such positively charged capsules bind naturally to the negatively charged keratin of the hair shaft. The capsule remains bound to the hair shaft, even after rinsing and drying. It is 1m in size

Secospheres(2) are zinc and zinc glycyrrhetinate (anti-inflammatory and sebum control) are also available in liposomes in a concentric construction. This construction ensures the timed release mechanism. It is their concentric inside that distinguishes them from regular liposomes.

Retinol Molecular Film Fluid(3) has a unique delivery system for Retinol in a molecular film, a very thin monolayer functional film that spreads very well on the epidermis favoring cutaneous absorption of the retinol molecule. The retinol molecule film achieved by combining cyclomethicone, dimethiconol, soybean oil, octyl cocoate, sphingolipids and retinol at 12,000 psi under microfluidizing conditions. This all-soluble molecular film is very occlusive and also shows a significant moisturizing profile under TEWL techniques. The occlusive film ensures cutaneous absorption of retinol and at the same time prolongs shelf life. The retinol contents can vary as per request.

- Nail Care

Innovative color and fashion trends remain the driver for sales. The upswings in nail care technology (especially in the treatment area) prompted the consumer to spend more money to buy expensive brands. Nail grooming and protection have been the area in which women have always been most interested. The additions of moisturizers, vitamins and new polymers that resist chipping have always been popular. More manufacturers are adding conditioning keratin and aloe moisturizers too. Pigments that change color with the body temperature and light are also available.

- Hair Care

In the high tech area of shampoo, the biggest breakthrough has been the addition of encapsulated vitamins and sunscreens, in an alkaline surfactant-based environment. The addition of positively charged, quaternized panthenol in shampoos and hair sprays has been another advancement worth recognizing. The inclusion of sunscreens (benzophenone-3 and octyl methoxycinnamate) in order to protect the hair from color fading and UV damage is also worth mentioning.

Today’s shampoos are made with mild surfactants and clean the hair thoroughly. Keratin, silk amino acids, proteins (wheat and milk) and dimethicone are just a few of the common ingredients found in shampoo and conditioner formulas.

Bath and body products are becoming more popular as well. Pleasantly fragranced body gel wash, body sprays, lotion moisturizers and luxurious body creams have become a new source of pleasure for the ladies relaxing in their home bathtub. Calgon, Healing Garden and Adidas from Coty are among the best selling brands.

- Hair Fixative Polymer

Geared for the global hair care market, international specialty products (Wayne, NJ), has introduced Aquaflex SF-40 a versatile hair fixative polymer.

Water soluble and high propellant tolerant, Aquaflex SF-40 is effective in 55 percent VOC, 80 percent VOC and anhydrous hair spray pump and aerosol systems. It is compatible with most cosmetic ingredients and can be used in both flexible feel and stiff feel finished products.

- Gelled Fatty Esters

A new line of gelled fatty esters introduced by Penreco (Houston, TX), a partnership between Pennzoil-Quaker State Company Conoco Inc., has been targeted for several formulated sunscreens, sun blocks, shower moisturizers and other cosmetic and body lotion products. The Versagel MP line uses isopropyl palmitate-the fatty ester of isopropyl alcohol and palmitic acid as its base. The line provides versatile chemical compatibility, excellent thermal and UV stability, and good clarity.

- Water Soluble Film

Chris * Craft Industrial Products (Gary, IN), introduces MonoSol XR, a film system comprised of polyvinyl alcohol (PVOH) water-soluble film with unique barrier properties. The barrier layer increases the range of products that can be packaged, including those that have tended to cause plasticizer migration and adverse chemical reactions. The use of a dispersible barrier layer and water-soluble film offers a broader range of packaging possibilities to manufacturers of agricultural and industrial chemicals, household chemicals, and commercial cleaning products.

-          International Flavors & Fragrances, Inc.

 Has announced a major reorganization that will enable the company to fulfill its vision of becoming its customers’ most valued resource for consumer preferred flavors and fragrances and, thereby, to drive long-term growth and shareholder value. Some of the highlights of the reorganization include having a single regional manager covering each of its major geographic clusters-North America; Europe; Latin America; Asia Pacific and the newly constituted Central Asia, Africa and Middle East region, which includes the Indian subcontinent. Business development will drive the top line growth of the company. Its responsibilities include category strategy, consumer research, product development, global sales and marketing, R&D coordination and technical application.

-          Tom’s of Maine Inc.

Has incorporated a new PC-based Enterprise Resource Planning (ERP) system and increased production by ten percent. Tom’s of Maine, Inc. is the leading manufacturer of natural personal wellness products such as soap, toothpaste and shampoo. The implementation of an ERP system has provided the accurate labor and materials cost data the company needed to optimize its manufacturing processes. The new system shows exactly how much labor and materials go into each job allowing production managers to fine-tune individual processes, such as adjusting batch sizes to coordinate with shift breaks, thus eliminating downtime.

The ERP system also makes it possible to immediately determine if the production line can be changed in response to customer request. Rather than manually comparing a list of items needed to process a certain product against an inventory list, a manger simply selects that particular job and runs the component availability inquiry.

The ERP system compares the bill of materials against the inventory and prints out a list of the items not in stock.

By maintaining an accurate inventory database linked to bills of material, the ERP system helps Tom’s to adapt production to changing demands and respond quickly to customer’s requests. The continued success of the ERP system is attributed to its flexibility, in terms of getting information out of the database, that can be implemented quickly and that is user friendly.              

Glow For It

Ultima II introduces two new products to help the skin shine. New Glowtion Highlight Souffle, a rich and fluffy souffle formula with light reflecting microprisms, helps create highlights wherever applied. Just a dab brings instant radiance to cheekbones, browbones, forehead or anywhere you want to glow. A.5 ounce jar retails for $17.50. In addition, Ultima II new Glowtion No Color Skin Brightening Moisturizer helps to even out skin tone and blur the look of flaws and fine lines .

Vitamins A and C help soften and nourish the skin and SPF 15 provides UVA and UVB protection. A2 oz. bottle retails for $21.50. Both products are available at J.C.Penney’s, Ulta, Walgreen’s and drug stores nationwide.

-          The Next Generation

Skin care of the future will take a variety of new forms and continue to offer a quick clarifying effect.

With the launch of Prada Beauty last October, the Italian fashion company has made a “long-term commitment to take care of the most fundamental fabric – the skin.” Twenty-six treatment-specific sku’s from seven product categories, Purify, Hydrate, Exfoliate, Lighten, Soothe, Shield, and Revive, were developed for layering. The project is overseen by CID (Cosmetics International Distribution Corp.), a Prada Group Company .

Prada Beauty’s Revive category includes formulas with heavy doses of vitamins, for example, Reviving Balm/Eye/Neck contains vitamins A, E, and H (biotin) to plump skin, restore firmness, and soften lines. The best seller, from the Shield category, is Shielding Balm SPF 15/lip, a product enriched with shea butter, vitamin B and E, and UVA/UVB filters.

Prada Beauty’s high tech packaging mimics that of the pharmaceutical industry with unit dose applications secured in air tight, airless containers sealed with Argon gas. The specialized containers, which utilize tyvek, protect products, prevent contamination, and allow for low levels of preservatives and high levels of ingredients. As CID broadens distribution in the spring, it will introduce multidose packaging and new categories. In March Procter & Gamble will extend the Olay Total Effects brand with four new products: Daily

Cleansing Treatments, Moisturizing Vitamin Complex with UV Protection, Age-Defying Foundation, and Full Treatment Lip Color. Most

innovative are the dual-textured cleansing cloths,

which exfoliate, remove makeup, cleanse, and condition with Olay’s new exclusive Vita-Lipid System.

Shiseido employs polymer technology in a new eye treatment, Sun Protective Eye Cream, that is formulated with tiny pearls to tighten and lighten the eye area. Este’e Lauder has fortified its botanicals research department and is studying such antioxidants as rasveretrol, which is derived from red wine .

Stated Dr. Maes of Este’e Lauder, “More than time-release properties, cosmetics will be more event-oriented. For example, Renutriv Lifting Serum contains a two-stage protection process in which the sun activates the release of antioxidants after a certain amount of exposure. This is especially important because skin conditions differ from person “ .